Pahrump Valley: Grape Escape

The Pahrump Valley Winery is no mirage. It is indeed an oasis in the desert.

In fact, the winery is such a popular place for Southern Nevada residents and tourists alike, that more than 80,000 people visit the 20-acre site each year. Its popularity comes from its accessibility, Napa Valley-like ambiance and uniqueness, according to Bill Loken, general manager.

"You don't expect to see a winery in the desert. It's very unique," Loken said of Nevada's only public winery.

Pahrump Valley Vineyards Inc. was founded in 1990 by Jack Sanders, who quickly discovered that desert wildlife was not conducive to cultivating the grapes he brought in from California. But after installing fencing to keep wild horses and rabbits at bay, the winery blossomed. In 2002, Sanders sold the property to Colorado-based Western Horizon Resorts, of which Bill Loken's older brother, Jim Loken, is founder and chief executive. The nationwide operator of private recreational vehicle parks paid $2.5 million for the property, then added a 196-slip RV park.

The winery's 3 1/2-acre vineyard features zinfandel grapes, which Loken called "tough, hardy and comfortable in our hostile environment." Although the grapes tolerate the area's hot days, cool nights and rocky soil, the winery doesn't own enough property to keep up with demand for its wine.

"We have way outgrown any chance of using whatever our little vineyard could produce," he said, noting that the grapes grown on-site are harvested and produced into "fun" wine, which is given away as samples in the tasting room. "The amount of wine we could produce off those would probably last a day."

Today, the winery has a part-time winemaker in California buying "fruit" from growers. Loken compared the process to a chef in search of fresh produce at a farmers market, and said about 85 percent of wineries operate the same way.

"We're a California winery on the Nevada side of the border," he said.

According to Loken, maintaining a large vineyard in Pahrump would not be cost effective. Growing and harvesting the grapes is "labor intensive," and California growers have the manpower and expertise to meet their needs. He also cited the grapes' superior quality.

The grapes are crushed in California, and the juice is transported by truck to the winery, where the vineyard's full-time winemaker turns it into wine. After fermentation and proper aging, the wine is bottled and labeled on-site by hand.

An expansion project to double the winery's size is set for completion this fall, and includes new wine-making equipment, a barrel room and a new tasting area. The wine will continue to be bottled by hand.

Loken said Pahrump Valley Winery produces about 10,000 cases of wine each year.

"We have more demand for our wine than our ability to produce. By fall, I hope we will have the capacity to make and store four times more wine than what we now have."

He pointed out that the vineyard also will be expanded, although the grapes will continue to be grown primarily for show.

Eight varieties of wine are produced and sold at the winery, including the award-winning Symphony and American Burgundy white and red varietals, as well as a new white merlot. In addition, the winery produces a creme sherry that is aged in oak for a minimum of four years before it is released.

Located about 65 miles from Las Vegas, the winery is often visited by valley residents, particularly from June through October when it hosts concerts and other special events every Saturday evening. Loken said one of the most popular events is the October Grape Stomp, set for Oct. 2 this year, when participants have the opportunity to crush grapes by stomping on them.

In addition, Loken has contracted with a helicopter tour company to offer special winery packages and recently completed three helicopter landing pads on the grounds.

Loken and his wife, Gretchen, learned about wine and winemaking when they started working at the winery about 18 months ago. He said he continues to be amazed that other winemakers are so open about their work and willing to discuss how to make a good wine.

"When I first got into the business, I learned there really are no secrets to making wine. It's just a process and each wine has its own style."DAY TRIP

The winery is located at 3810 Winery Road. Free tours are offered from 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. daily and the tasting room is open from 10 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily.

To get there from Las Vegas: Take Interstate 15 south to Blue Diamond Road and head west. Take Nevada Highway 160 about 65 miles to Pahrump Valley, and then turn right on Winery Road.

For more information, call (775) 727-6900 or (800) 368-9463.

HALI BERNSTEIN SAYLOR

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