COLUMN: Carmel Hopkins

Two of the most charming towns in Nevada are Genoa (pronounced Juh-NO-uh) and Dayton. The towns are on either side of Carson City -- Genoa is 17 miles southwest and Dayton is 14 miles northeast -- but have much in common, especially the battle over which is the first permanent settlement in the state.

Both towns were established as trading posts in the early 1850s, Genoa in 1851 under the name Mormon Station. It is an interesting tidbit of information that the Mormon Fort in Genoa deteriorated as it went from fort to bar to chicken coop and pig barn. The fort and half the town burned down in 1910, after a resident of the "poor house" started a fire while trying to fumigate bedbugs from his mattress by lighting a container of sulfur under it.

Even if Genoa has a legitimate claim to being the oldest permanent settlement in the state, Dayton was the site of the first recorded wedding, the first recorded divorce and the first recorded public entertainment. In a continuing attempt to legitimize its claim, Dayton is documented as having the earliest established cemetery. Boot Hill, as depicted in every cowboy picture ever made, must have used the Dayton Cemetery as its pattern. It sits atop a hill overlooking the town and is fenced to keep the varmints from desecrating the graves.

The heart of Dayton is Odeon Hall, which was the site of the town's two major events. In 1879, President Grant addressed a crowd of citizens from the balcony, the highlight of the 19th century. In 1960, Hollywood came to town to film "The Misfits." Luminaries such as John Huston, Clark Gable, Thelma Ritter, Arthur Miller, Montgomery Clift and Eli Wallach acted on the streets of Dayton, the highlight of the 20th century. Old-timers still talk about Marilyn Monroe's prowess with a paddle-ball in the Odeon Bar.

Both towns were stopping places for Pony Express riders, a fact that is celebrated in each town's museum.

The Dayton museum operates out of the remains of a one-room schoolhouse, which is purported to be the first in the state. The museum is funded though the donations of visitors and operates under the watchful eyes of a few citizens who have worked hard to keep it alive. It offers interesting exhibits and old photographs of the town.

The Genoa museum is in the two-story brick county courthouse. In 1854, the town was named the seat of Carson County, Utah Territory. It became the seat of Douglas County, Nevada Territory, in 1861. After the fire of 1910, the importance of the town was degraded and nearby Minden became the county seat in 1916. The courthouse eventually became a hotel, housing stagecoach drivers, Pony Express riders and murderers alike. The center of town has a hanging tree.

Both towns are smack dab in the middle of farming country, although Dayton less so because of housing developments going up between it and Carson City, as well as developments going west to Silver Springs where Alt. U.S. Highway 95 and U.S. Highway 50 intersect. U.S. 50 is four lanes passing through Dayton and travelers who want to see the old settlement have to turn north at the red light.

Jacks Valley Road between Carson City and Genoa runs through hay and alfalfa fields. Genoa also can be accessed off U.S. Highway 395. There's a road going west to Genoa that has no highway designation, but it's there and about a three-mile trek through more farmland.

Both towns have residents, Dayton moreso than Genoa. Both sport original buildings in which residents show their community pride and offer tourists the opportunity to spend a few bucks. The Genoa Bar was the territory's first human watering hole. It's still operating and well worth visiting. Mia's Swiss Restaurant in Dayton's Odeon Hall is a must place for a delicious lunch or dinner.

I hope you enjoyed this second in a series of columns on our trip through the great state of Nevada. Anyone interested in touring the state should contact the Nevada Department of Tourism at http://www.travelnevada.com. The department sends out a very helpful package that includes an up-to-date map (showing roads under construction, etc.). For a more folksy look at the state, I recommend buying "The Complete Nevada Traveler" by David W. Toll.

Carmel Hopkins, real estate product manager for the Las Vegas Review-Journal and Las Vegas Sun, can be reached at 380-4574. Her e-mail address is Carmel_Hopkins@ lasvegasnewspapers.com. Snail mail is P.O. Box 70, Las Vegas, NV 89125.

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